The flag is flying at halfmast on Tian’anmen Square, the ultimate indication of a nation’s pain.

At 2.28 pm on 19 Monday, exactly one week after the Sichuan earthquake ripped open the ground and shattered the peaceful lives of millions, 1.3 billion people across China stopped what they were doing for three minutes of silence. I have never heard such quiet in Beijing. It was eerie. China was observing this time for the thousands of victims who had lost their lives in its latest natural disaster. At the end of the three minutes hooters blared and people went solemnly about their business.

In times of crisis the human spirit seeks instinctively to sympathise, comfort and support those who are on the sharp end of the spear. Having seen war and natural disasters up close and personal on the African continent, I have always found that for a time, compassion during crisis makes irrelevant all the differences people may have.

Unparalleled shock, horror and despair

In a country that is no stranger to the calamities of nature, this latest incident carried with it unparalleled shock, horror and despair. Perhaps it’s the sheer number of people killed, wounded and displaced or the fact that it came during the euphoria of the Olympic year. For me the pain comes from the reality that so many of the dead and traumatised are children.

Two images remain. One is of rescue workers clearing away rubble to find a group of children curled up in the foetal position, seemingly having their after lunch nap. They had died like that. Young lives snuffed out in an instant.

The other is of a helmeted Chinese Premier Wen Jiabao, sticking his head into a crack in a mass of collapsed concrete and shouting to trapped children, “I am Grandpa Wen Jiabao, we have come to rescue you.”

Premier Wen has evolved to become a man for all seasons. His is the face most often seen when disaster strikes China. During the first few hours and days after the earthquake he was at ground zero, encouraging, congratulating, consoling and listening. People respond to him. In a time of crisis, what we all cling to is hope. I was watching a TV broadcast with a group of friends when the Premier held two rescued children and spoke to a distraught mother. There was not a dry eye in the room. Beyond the power, he has the human touch and he brings hope.

A media watershed

While I watched events unfold, I was also reminded that in the many years I have lived in China, this is the first time I have seen sustained live, on the spot coverage of a disaster incident. The country has been known in the past to delay reporting on any form of disaster and play down the figures of dead and injured. This time it’s different and the refreshing transparency has allowed all Chinese to live through the quake with the victims, something they have not been privy to in past incidents. The openness has helped with the awareness of what is needed and serves to rally the country to donate aid.

It seems that all offices, schools and institutions have made collections for cash and other material that could make the lives of quake sufferers more comfortable. Those who had nothing to give offered the blood in their veins as blood banks reached capacity for the first time in years. Online donation fervour is beyond measure. And watching media reports people can now see how their donations will be used. It’s a way in and instead of just sitting in Beijing or Shanghai; you can be there and offer your own donations or prayers. This type of media coverage also sets a precedent for future open reporting, which is a positive aspect that emerges from all the chaos.

The monumental logistics of rescue has again brought the People’s Liberation Army (PLA) into focus. In China’s time of need they are invaluable. As an army it is probably unlike other armies around the world in that is serves a dual role, to both defend the nation in times of conflict and also act as a search and recovery unit in times of natural disaster.

Reaction was swift and committed. This time we could see it all live. They dug, searched, rescued and cried on camera.

Unlike Myanmar...

It’s all in stark contrast to neighbouring Myanmar, also reeling under its own tragic floods, where aid lies perishing as the government debates about who is better suited to deliver the aid to dying victims.

I watched as the Olympic torch relay, so long the focus of media headlines became non-news. It is now suspended for three days. China has more important issues on its mind. Not since the founding of the PRC has the state declared three days of mourning.

Even all forms of public entertainment are banned for the time being, including websites that entertain. China has more important issues on its mind. It is the first period of national mourning, other than for the death of a national leader, ever seen here.

Experts have upgraded the earthquake intensity to level 8 on the Richter scale. Eight, usually a lucky number for Chinese showed its darker side on 12 May.

As a foreigner living in China it’s impossible to be detached from this tragedy. We all offer our support in whatever way and pray for the souls of the departed. May they rest in peace.