Francisco Little is a South African writer living and working in Beijing. He spends his time trying to understand Chinese culture and keeping his chopsticks sharpened.

When I looked out of my apartment window on 30 September Beijing was its usual smoggy grey, with buildings smudged in the distance. I have, however, lived here long enough to know that on big occasions the Chinese always make a plan.

That night it rained and rained hard. Forget about natural drops, this rain was 'induced' with the help of chemical rockets fired into the heavens to help things along. Call it cloud seeding on a mega scale.

The extra effort was all due to the fact that the following day, 1 October, was the motherland of occasions as the Chinese Communist Party threw their 60th birthday bash. Everything was choreographed to go like clockwork, including the weather.

The devil is, after all, in the details. Blue skies greeted Beijing residents on the big day. Was there any doubt?

Security crackdown

Streets were quiet as the security forces had locked down the city days beforehand. Much had been mentioned of dissidents from Tibet and Xinjiang province possibly disrupting proceedings and the authorities were leaving nothing to chance.

Strict access codes were issued to the VIPs allowed to see the extravaganza up close and personal. I, along with the other 17 million Beijing residents, was advised to stay home and watch the spectacle on TV.

For more than two hours immaculately turned out troops, tanks and floats filed past the rostrum at the Forbidden City on the capital's central Chang An Avenue, which passes by Tiananmen Square. Even a newer, cleaner version of the famous painting of Mao Zedong had been hung. All the while the band played on.

'Greetings Comrades!'

President Hu Jintao, dressed for the occasion in a traditional maoist suit, greeted his troops by yelling "Greetings Comrades!" and thousands shouted back "Greetings Leader!"

A squad of militia-women in white berets, pink minis and white boots goose-stepped their way into male hearts.

The country and the world watched the debut of China's land-based camouflaged cruise missiles, reported as the first capable of hitting a moving target at sea. They no doubt raised eyebrows in certain quarters. The stream of the most advanced domestically-made weaponry of the People's Liberation Army (PLA), contrasted with dozens of colourful, often gaudy floats, showing the change in the country over 60 years.

It all went off with the precise timing brought about by months of practice. While those taking part were overcome with patriotic fervour, most of my colleagues and friends told me they were more concerned with having a holiday than the CPC anniversary.

That night the sky above Tiananmen burst into life with a fireworks display featuring golden dragons. It was an explosive ending to a day of celebration.

On page two: cool cops, a magical garden, and running the tourist gauntlet.

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